Yet More Knitting
Feb. 17th, 2009 10:00 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)

I finished my first hat over the weekend. Took me a while to get the double decrease I was doing right, so there's a zig zag in the decreases across the crown. I decided to leave the wrong ones -- the zig-zag looks deliberate. Also, while I did a gauge sample and based the size on the sample, I didn't know how much to reduce the size to allow for stretch, so I didn't, which means the hat really is a bit on the big side, since unstretched it's just the size of my head. Might be better for someone with dreds. On the other hand, it is an object, it is finished, and it looks pretty good for beginner's work, so I am provisionally pleased. But I still have a bit of yarn left over so the question is: tassel or not?
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Date: 2009-02-17 06:13 pm (UTC)Tassels look ratty pretty fast. I'd say save it; you never know when you'll need a stripe of exactly that shade and gauge.
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Date: 2009-02-17 06:27 pm (UTC)It's amazing how much head sizes vary, so unless you already have a very large head, you're likely to find someone that it fits without needing to find someone who wears dreads.
I am personally not a big fan of tassels, but it might look nice on this one.
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Date: 2009-02-17 06:32 pm (UTC)Given what I have seen
Date: 2009-02-17 06:43 pm (UTC)Re: Given what I have seen
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Date: 2009-02-17 07:23 pm (UTC)You know, I was just talking to my knitting ladies about trying a hat next. What pattern did you use?
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Date: 2009-02-17 07:56 pm (UTC)Working from memory, what you have there is something that is a multiple of 4 stitches around (in my case 108). After doing a long tail cast on it's k1 p1 all the way around for um...enough rows that you can fold it up and have a nice wide cuff. (Looks like it was 17 rows on my hat. This is probably too many, esp. if you have a small head and work with a medium weigh yarn.)
Then k2 p2 all the way around for 4 rows, then a k2 p2 row where you do a single decrease ahead of each k2, and a single increase behind each k2; another 4 rows of k2 p2, then another row with a decrease ahead of the k2s and an increase after, then k2 p2 for another 4 rows. Then when you get back to the beginning as indicated by the stitch marker at the bottom of your work, it's p2 k2 (i.e. purl on top of prior knits, knit on top of prior purls) for 4 rows; go back to k2 p2 for 4 rows. Then do a row or two of knitting all the way around, put a stitch marker in right above your original starting marker, divide your total # of stitches by 4 and count that many around the row, place another stitch marker, and on around until the markers divide the work into equal quarters.
From here on just knit all stitches except that whenever you come to a stitch marker do a double decrease. Knit until you've reduced down to just a dozen or so stitches in the row then take your working yarn, cut off a long tail, thread it into a tapestry needle, and run it through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Weave in your various yarn ends as normal.
You can probably skip the part where you do the double decrease the wrong way (wrong: leaving the two slipped stitches *on the right needle* behind the knitted stitch) because while this does still create a decrease, it's a bitch to work. Also, it's wrong.
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Date: 2009-02-17 08:06 pm (UTC)If you haven't used stitch markers yet, the little plastic ones that look like tiny padlocks are easy to use and cost almost nothing.
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Date: 2009-02-17 10:38 pm (UTC)Sally Melville says "Once is a mistake; twice is a problem; three times is a design."
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Date: 2009-02-17 11:24 pm (UTC)www.knitty.com is a nice source for free patterns. You're on Ravelry, aren't you?
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Date: 2009-02-18 03:02 am (UTC)