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Above Jade Waters

Once we had done ambling around Fairhaven, we piled in the car and headed for Burlington, where we turned east on State Route 20 -- The Northern Cascades Scenic Highway. We had a pleasant, sunny run through the fields and small farm towns of the upper Skagit valley -- Minkler, Lyman, Birdsview, and the ever risible Concrete -- often tooling along by the banks of the Skagit River itself, with the peaks drawing nearer through the massed trees crowding the verges.

There's something odd about the waters of the Skagit. All along its length, the water is an unnatural, almost unearthly shade of bright jade green. No, really. Jade effing Green. I mean high end, jewelry quality, semi-translucent, No-Shit-There-I-Was Chinese jade. Green. Like a 1978 fall season pantsuit from the Pruneyard. Practically teal. I couldn't get a decent picture, alas.

Google fu tells me the color is due to glacial flour suspended in the water --basically it's glacier-ground, fine mineral dust suspended in the water, reflecting and refracting light. Anyway, it's quite pretty. In a spooky sort of way.

Before we hit the upslopes, we stopped at the Cascadian Farms fruit stand, set back in acres of blueberry bushes, covered in berries so big you could see the blue from the road. The farm lets the you pick your own, but we opted for a punt of the ready-picked ones, since they don't allow pets and there was no shady parking for the dog. I also bought a shake made with their own organic strawberry ice cream. My word. Possibly the best strawberry milkshake ever. Those were some happy damn' cows, I tell you what.
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Harris Avenue Cafe

Screw the cut tag, nobody seems to be clicking through anyway.

Know thyself, and all that. So it wasn't a great surprise to me when Day 1 of our road trip dawned with me trying to do a week's worth of laundry and chores in a day. And it was no surprise at all that with all that 11th hour catch up, we hit the road a lot later than I hoped. Luckily, I had planned for it. So our first leg was just a quick jaunt up to Bellingham, with a (late) dinner stop in Seattle.

In the morning, we ventured out to seek breakfast and a little American touristry in Fairhaven. Bellingham, you see, is really the confluence of about three smaller towns that merged. Our favorite bit of Bellingham is the former Victorian port town of Fairhaven. It's kept a lot of its old original buildings, and turned into a funky arts and dining district, with galleries, bead stores, book stores, gelaterias, pubs, and the like. A fun place to browse through, as long as you don't mind a bit of hill climbing. We usually stop for tea in The Abbey Garden and browse the blond-wood shelves of Village Books, between stints in woodwork, pottery, and glass galleries. What we don't usually do is get to Fairhaven early enough to eat breakfast. And a lot of the eateries in the area tend to be pubby, lunchy, dinnery sorts of joints.

Luckily we spotted the Harris Ave. Cafe, whose posted menu did indeed include normal breakfasty things like eggs and toast. And pretty swell breakfasty things, as it turns out. My orange-infused blueberry french toast was, alas, too dry to skip the syrup, but it was a revelation once the syrup was added. And it came with possibly the prettiest side of fruit I've ever had. The real winner was Hal's omelette, where the blend of smoked Keta salmon, feta, roasted garlic, and pesto was so marvelously balanced that all the flavors came through in concert. Close to perfect fried spuds with chive, too. Lovely.

The cafe itself is brightly painted, sunlit, and popular, with the kind of happy buzz that you find in a local favorite. As an added bonus, across the street you can see the second story windows of an office that sports the legend Spade and Archer -- which lends just the right frisson of Through the Looking Glass to the proceedings. (The office is apparently the former digs of local author Steve Martini, and the new occupant decided to keep the signage. Yay, new occupant.)

Overall, lovely place for a meal, especially if you can get in between the breakfast and lunch rushes.
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So, David Levine is doing a reading at Powell's Books this evening. A reading from his very first published book. It would be very cool to go, thinks I. But Hal's working tonight, and a 6 hour round trip is rather a lot of solo driving in the dark on a school night. So I thought maybe I could hop a train down to Portland to catch the reading. Not a sausage. I would have to leave at 2:00 this afternoon and literally could not get back to Seattle earlier than 12 noon tomorrow. And that's only true assuming that the "optimal" trains weren't booked up, which they generally are days and days advance.

This strikes me as totally inadequate. I would totally hop a train to Portland (or, for that matter Vancouver) for a short weekday or weekend trip if the schedules were remotely cooperative, and the trains weren't packed to the rafters. The fact that the trains are packed to the rafters suggests that I'm not the only one. Why on Earth don't we have better passenger train service between Portland and Vancouver?

March 2022

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